“Give Your Sprinter to a Real Dirtbag!”
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Some of these vans have so many gorgeous wood panels and stainless steel fixtures, they make my town house look a little dumpy
How Many of These 28 Classic Climbing Books Have You Read?
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Survival memoirs, hard skills, and reading recommendations from pro climbers
In 1976, a Plane Full of Weed Crashed Into Yosemite. Chaos Ensued.
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A new documentary exposes the hijinks of the climbers involved. We interview the director and a source who revealed his story 50 years later.
How a Dutch Climber Tricked Nearly Everyone Into Believing He’d Sent a V16
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For most of history, ground-breaking climbers were taken at their word. A new controversy surrounding a doctored “send” video officially extinguishes our sport’s longstanding honor system.
I Always Dreamed of Climbing My First 5.14—But Never Thought It Would Be in a Concrete Bridge
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In August, Sam MacIlwaine and Mary Eden sent ‘Autobahn’ (5.14a R), one of the hardest offwidths in the world. Now, MacIlwaine recounts how she came to achieve a milestone in the last place she expected.
Don’t Make My Mistake on the Best 5.4 in the US
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(Pro tip: treat the descent with respect.)
How a MoonBoard (Almost) Kept Me Sane at Sea
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High adventure doesn’t always have to be found on soaring cliffs. Over four months at sea, the challenges of the mountains were distilled to just seven feet.
Free Soloing Hard Routes Gives Her Joy. But She Doesn’t Recommend Others Try It.
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In May, Aleksandra Taistra free soloed one of the hardest known routes by a woman. But just because she loves climbing ropeless, doesn’t mean she recommends it.
Our Reviewer Just Used This New Device to Set 5 El Cap Speed Records. Here’s Why You Might Want to Check it Out.
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The device pays homage to the Silent Partner, but is certainly not a remake.
Canadian Legend Steve Sutton Put Up First Ascents From El Capitan to Joshua Tree
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After a life of wild first ascents, cutting-edge free climbing, and even belaying Lynn Hill on her groundbreaking ascent of the Nose on El Cap, Steve Sutton passed away on June 1.
Short-Fixing
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One way to move faster on long routes – Short-fixing is an experts-only technique that essentially separates a climbing team into two roped soloists via a knot at an anchor, allowing the climbers to move simultaneously. It’s most commonly used on one-day ascents of big walls, or to speed up the process during multi-day ascents. Don’t confuse short-fixing with simul-climbing, when both climbers move together, without the rope fixed to an anchor in between. When simul-climbing, if one climber falls, the results can be catastrophic.
Summer Is Here and So Is Alpine Season. Here Are 8 Ways to Maximize the Fun.
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Progressing from weekend cragging to long alpine routes can be intimidating for anyone, even strong and competent traditional climbers.
The Climber Behind a Giant New Route in Pakistan Recalls Freaky Near Miss
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Siebe Vanhee completed a first ascent two decades in the making. Now, he reveals the scariest moments and whether the 5,000-foot route was worth the risk.
Chris Sharma Reveals the Untold Story of the World’s First 5.15, 25 Years After ‘Biographie’
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How ego death and a month with the Dalai Lama helped Sharma on his four-year journey to crack the historic Céüse line
A Brilliant Way to Climb Multi-Pitches Faster and With Less Energy
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Progress capture devices can be used to save energy and climb harder on big alpine routes.
